In the spring of 2019, the FW3A forum flashlight was released. Popular compact contraption with great brightness and flexible Anduril interface. The model was to your liking and relatively recently three variations of this model saw the light: Lumintop EDC18, about which I have already told. FW21 — the same as 3A only with a more capacious 21700 power supply and a compact long-range FW1A.

In general, a complete set.

Beautiful promotional pictures are only available for 211A. 3A in size is 1A with light from 21. So just make adjustments for that.

Packaging and appearance

The flashlight was made by Lumintop, so the packaging is designed in their modest style. Be that as it may, the packaging, although not colorful, is neat. There is no feeling of some kind of basement.

The flashlight is packed in a beige cardboard box, on which the “cover” is still put on top. Actually, that’s the only difference. Well, they also put a CW sticker on the version with a cold color.

Inside, in white foam rubber, there is the whole kit: the flashlight itself, a whole sheet of instructions, o-rings and, in the case of the FW21, an adapter 18650-21700.

The appearance of the flashlight matches the packaging. He is quite modest, I would say ascetic. But at the same time, looking at the flashlight, you immediately understand that this is not some kind of noname craft. Personally, for me, the appearance of this model leaves a clear feeling of a small-circulation forum item — which, in fact, it was originally. That is, when creating, they are guided mainly by functionality, and the appearance is already secondary.

However, there is room for decorations here too — you can buy luminous spacers for optics, and the 21A sizes made it possible to place seats for tiny luminous tritium flasks.

In short, in my opinion, the FW3A cannot be called an ugly flashlight. He’s not handsome, but he’s not ugly either. I think you understand the difference.

Here is 3A1A, from all sides.


And in a beautiful country environment from all angles.

One of the most important characteristics of the appearance and usability of a flashlight is its size. So, even the relatively large 21700 version is actually very compact — what can we say about 1A 3A, which, in general, are quite comparable to flashlights powered by 14500!

It can be seen that 1A 3A differ only in the length of the head and the color of the clip.

I think that if someone has not thought about it before, then now they will understand what it technically translates into, taking into account the brightness figures declared in the specification, which are fair even for relatively large lamps.

Well, now in more detail.

The flashlight is controlled by a tail button, of course, not the usual power button. A round metal button of medium size is located in a small recess, it does not stick out. Quite comfortable, with a noticeable click. If you wish, you can buy a luminous one, and the FW21 can be decorated with tritium inserts. The chamfers on the latter, by the way, should be made less sharp.

Manufacturer categorically it is not recommended to unscrew the tail to maintain maximum contact integrity.
But there are no constructive obstacles for this either. The tail is not glued, knurling, as you can see, is quite present.


The case is smooth, but due to the clip and small dimensions, the grip is quite reliable and comfortable. Even the FW21, believe me, does not come close to feeling like some kind of bulky flashlight — the whole difference is only a couple of extra millimeters in the body diameter.

The spring in the tail is quite thick. Bordered with a contact ring for an additional sleeve (the fact of the presence of which here surprised me, I’m used to seeing these in tactical flashlights)


The carving on the tail is small, very oily missed. Turner, although not a masterpiece of complexity, is neat.


Actually, this is the inner sleeve. And here is what is worth noting here — it is recommended Not use protected batteries. Just Button-top — no problem. But not more. And in the case of the FW21A, this is generally ideal, because flat-headed batteries do not reach the contact and you have to use a spacer magnet.

Lumintop representative confirmed that in the future the length of the case will be reduced, there will be no problems.

In general, if desired, each flashlight can be easily disassembled into three parts.

The head twists quite easily again due to knurling. In the case of the FW21, as mentioned, you can still add tritium inserts. True, the pleasure is really expensive.

The carving on the head is larger than on the tail, and the lubricant is graphite. although maybe these are traces of aluminum on the thread?



The spring is short. By the color of the driver of new products — 21 1A differs from the 3A released in the spring

The wide bezel twists without problems, exposing offal, for example, the carclo optics covered by glass, which comes by default in 10511 on 21 3A

If desired, you can add even more beauty to the flashlight.


In the case of the FW1A, it will be a small textured reflector.

Inside, everything, in general, is neat, if you do not close your eyes to the contacts polluted by the flux. Not that it played any functional role, but I will note the fact.

Well, this is how the optics look live.

And finally, a full X-ray of 3A giblets, so everything should be organized inside. Although, judging by what I see, there are still differences, in reality, a spring was nevertheless organized from the side of the head.



still the same Sauron thunderstorm, flexible Anduril. I recently released the most (hopefully) complete setup guide, you can see it in my profile or on the channel.

here is the text version of the highlights.

The default setting is stepless brightness control.

from OFF

Inclusion at the last memorized level. — on click, shutdown is similar.

Retention — start on minimum brightness and increase to the ceiling (namely the ceiling, not a turbo). Smooth or stepped, depending on what type of brightness selection you are in.

2 clicks — brightness ceiling.

Click-hold — ceiling (if from OFF)and decrease brightness

3 clicks — special modes (check voltage, beacon, temperature)

Click-click-hold — modes gates (candle, bike signal, party-strobe, tactical strobe, “pull out your eye”). Transition between them on 2 clicks. The last used mode starts

4 clicks — lock/unlock. Here, when held, the minimum brightness will be launched. Comfortable.

5 clicks — momentary mode (works only from stepless adjustment!) — starts the last brightness level used in stepless adjustment. To get out of it, you need to open the contact with the tail cap. Convenient for situations when you need to run only one mode at the same brightness all the time.

6 clicks — muggle mode. Those. adjust the brightness, give someone a flashlight, it will turn on only at this brightness. Well, to give the same children and not worry that they will blind each other. Here it is at the level of 5-240 lumens. It is quite suitable as a running light or indoor light.

From ON

On click OFF

Retention — brightness up

Click and hold — brightness down

2 clicks — turbo

3 switching between smooth and stepped brightness change.

4 clicks — stepless adjustment.

Falls into the minimum brightness selection, N clicks sets the minimum brightness. Those. 10 clicks will make the minimum brightness 10 out of 150 possible.

2 clicks to get into the max brightness setting according to the formula 1+turbo-N. Those. at 1 cheek, the maximum brightness will be equal to turbo. At 20 clicks it would be a turbo 19.

2 more clicks — the number of steps in the min-max spread. By default, there seem to be 7 of them, which is already quite enough.

From what is worth mentioning — here necessary calibrate the temperature sensor. for me it showed 42 degrees instead of 25 real ones, that is, it heated up Very fast.

Those. go to the temperature settings (3 clicks) then 2 times 2 times — we get into temp chec. you need to compare the readings of the flashlight with an external thermometer. if you see 4 and 2 blinks, that is 42 degrees, while the thermometer shows 26 — you need to intervene. I had to. you need to make 2 clicks, you will see a couple of flashes and bzzzz. during bezz you need to click off the real temperature, click off, there will be a pause and a second pair of blinks, after which there will be another bzzzz — here we go to the setting of the thermal cutoff. It works on the principle of 30C + the number of clicks. those. if you click 40 times, the thermal cut-off temperature will be set to 70 degrees. By default it is set to 45 degrees, I set it to 50.

Somehow like this. Basic, of course. Also, for example, you can set the ceiling level (I remind you — it scrolls to the ceiling, not to the turbo), play with frequent strobes.

You can set the lower and upper levels (floorceiling). from ON do 4 clicks, the flashlight answers bzzzz. During the first, the desired brightness threshold (N 150) is set by the number of clicks. During the second — the top according to the principle (151-N). That is, by making one click, the ceiling is not set to the default 130150 (for this you need to press 21 times), but the maximum available brightness is 150150x.

Very flexible. Very. This is both a plus and a minus. My eyes popped out of my head when I saw this papier with a bunch of all sorts of settings, because between the moments of getting a new flashlight with Anduril, I categorically all these nuances. For an ordinary user, this may be a reason to throw a flashlight with matyuks. In the sense that you can use it right away, but there is a chance to accidentally climb somewhere in the wrong place, starting to foolishly hysterically press the button.

On the other hand, people in the subject and fans of customization will get what they need.

I am sincerely convinced that the need to do all this will pretty much limit the circle of flashlight buyers. So, once you get used to it, there is no problem. To give someone like “Na, Petrovich a gift for you” will not work, Petrovich will call and ask what and how. Yes, and you will at least need to adjust the thermoregulation.

full manual here


I like it:
here switching between these two types of modes is very simple, in three clicks.
muggle mode. very comfortably. Very.
blocking and being able to get some light even in it.

did not like: strobe. I never use it, but here it is somehow unusually implemented.
In short, I haven’t read it, but I condemn it.

How the lanterns shine

Available options: XPL-HI SST20Nichia.

I got Xpl-HI 6500K in FW21 version, XPL-HI 5000K in FW3A1A.

Triple gives diffused light. Even with 6500K it’s not as cold as the same S2 + in its cheapest incarnation. In appearance, this is something closer to 5500K than 6500K, there is no such blockage in cyanosis. Well, 5000K looks much more decent here. 1A with its combination of a shallow textured reflector and a de-dominated XPL-HI gives an interesting combination of a bright center and good side illumination. In general, it is quite convenient for those who do not like the light of a triple — there is a choice.

There is no visible PWM flicker.

720 beam

cut-off by discharge somewhere at 2.9v. in general, the flashlight, approaching this level, shines in a very dim mode.

And here is something interesting. Heating, thermoregulation, stabilization.

3A1A are comparable in size to AA14500 flashlight. And the exhaust is drastically different. So it’s clear how much heat it can generate… And it does.
I calibrated all three flashlights and set the thermal cutoff threshold to 60 degrees. this is more common, but since the flashlights have a kind of cigar grip, the fingers do not lie on the maximum heated part of the head and I did not feel any discomfort even in the turbo. 77 mode is quite comfortable.

FET+7 is good! I somehow got used to the fact that all these narsil-anduril horseradish in terms of the minimum threshold for complete stabilization, the brightness there is far from a flat line on the graph. I didn’t see this problem here.

It can be seen that mode 5 (close to the ceiling muggle mode is the limit at which the thermal cut-off does not work even without cooling. By and large, 5-6 modes are usually enough for me. Accordingly, if you use a flashlight on the street, then look at the graph with cooling, somehow everything will look like this.

What you need to pay attention to here:
a) thermoregulation in FW3A is really different from 1A 21, where the brightness is simply reset by thermal cutoff. Here it is more aggressive, growing as the body cools, showing a fair amount of zigzags where other flashlights show a relatively straight line.

b) 7 7 and show a sharp drop in brightness after switching on and a subsequent return rise. At first I decided that this was due to the fact that the driver did not yet have time to remove excess heat to the case and the sensor heats up sharply. But that’s not the case with a turbo. There are ideas — write.

I am quite satisfied with the range of default modes, 7 levels of brightness here cover all household needs. Well, the different optics of the FW1A 3A makes it possible to choose exactly what you want to get, a jellied melee or the light of a familiar reflector. The brightness in the turbo is definitely enough for the eyes.

See for yourself. It took me a hell of a lot of time to do all this, I hope it’s not wasted.

720 FW21 da4a 3 modes

720 da4a 3 modes

720 FW1A da4a3 modes

720 FW21 da4a 2 modes

720 da4a 2 modes

720 FW1A da4a2 modes

720 FW21 da4a 1 modes

720 da4a 1 modes

720 FW1A da4a1 modes

The gap between the turbo and 77 is very significant. Let me remind you that this level can be set to the required brightness for both conventional and stepless control types.

720 turbo modes

720 turbo modes 2

720 turbo modes 3

As for the range, then it is appropriate to talk only about the FW1A. Here’s a distance of 75m.

720 FW1A

On the video, of course, there are many more examples of the work of these flashlights.

General impressions

In many ways, they intersect with the impressions of the Lumintop EDC18. In fact, these are three variations of the same original forum model. And due to the specifics of control and appearance (no side button, no diffuser, no magnet), in my opinion, they are even closer to a fairly small and specific audience.

But this trinity has 2 types of optics — TIR and reflector and 21700 version. AND if you understand what exactly you buy, there will be no surprises and you will like the flashlight. And this is really extremely important. Not everyone will be satisfied with the need to remember all these control combinations and the need to calibrate the temperature sensor. In short, these flashlights are not for the inexperienced user. And if the need to spend 10-20 minutes memorizing the instructions does not bother you, then I don’t see any problems.

As for the light, the brightness more than suited me. The spread of the default levels «half-ceiling» is quite sufficient for domestic purposes, the turbo is really bright and not zilch, but with a duration acceptable for real use. Not exactly good, but acceptable. The range of the FW21 is also quite good for its size, up to a hundred meters you can shine with good detail.

The stabilization is good, and if you set the thermal cutoff threshold to 60 degrees, then there will be no problems with the early operation of thermoregulation up to 6/7 mode. And this mode, by the way, is brighter than the ones I usually use.

Personally, I would not overestimate the ramping mode, at least in its default settings, since it will be difficult to find a mode where the flashlight will not be excessively hot. So, if I set the ceiling of the Muggle mode a little higher than the default one and, if I need high brightness, I will go back to ramp mode, then I can use it. In the case of the stepped ramp, this problem is not present, and I know that it is not necessary to climb above 5-6 modes — here the default settings and the scatter of modes are enough for my eyes.

In general, this is a thing in itself. If you need an extremely compact 1865021700 flashlight, then this is it. There is nowhere to be more compact, but the downside of this is fast heating at those brightnesses that can look very tempting in the specification. For me personally, the FW3A looks the weakest here, because the FW21 gives everything the same but with a much more capacious battery and a better heat sink. And the difference in size here is frankly negligible.

In principle, I don’t think that here I said something that you wouldn’t understand for yourself from the review anyway.

Well, something like this, I hope everything was clear enough here.

Buy here:

FW3A lumintop official store Aliexpress ► YANDEX-MARKET ►SBERMEGAMARKET

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