Before the release of the Sofirn SP40, the Skilhunt H03 was (and for many still is) the people’s headlamp. In my opinion, this is the only (except for Lumintop Tool Worm and Nitecore Tube) model from famous brand, which is produced and remains in demand for several years.

It was possible to buy Skilhunt H03 without problems for $30 on sales. Until recently, of course. And this is more than a good price compared to $50-60 for other branded foreheads. For this thirty, the user received convenient control with 4 (actually 8) brightness levels, comfortable neutral diffused light, and a magnet at the end. Well, the overall quality of manufacture and appearance were also at a quite decent level, the last significant problem with the driver remained in the second generation of this headphone.

Of course, sooner or later Skilhunt had to release a new model. And since the Skilhunt H03 turned out to be extremely successful, I was very interested in what the engineers could do in this situation. Yes, they tried — they released a model with charging, a curtain, they made a model with colored LEDs. But, judging by the comments, all this was far from the popularity of the basic, classic model.

And now, after perhaps 3 years after the release, the manufacturer released the Skilhunt H04 and offered it for review. I suspected that this would be the case, so long before the announcement I bought and hid the H03 in a closet in order to later compare both models in the review.

Specification:

Light source: Cree XM-L2

Max output: ANSI 1000 lumens / 1200 LED lumens

Light beam distance: 123m.
Reflector: TIR lens, 30°
Working voltage: 2.7V-8.4V
Power supply: 18650 battery or 2 CR123A batteries.
Charge level indication: When the battery is low, the button flashes
Waterproof: IPX-8
Body Material: Aircraft Aluminum
Case finish: Premium Type III anodized with anti-abrasive coating
Dimensions: 100mm (length) x 24mm (head) x 22mm (body)
Weight: 46g.
Equipment: Flashlight, head mount, steel clip, spare o-rings, hand strap, user manual

●XM-L2 LED, maximum 1200 lumens, high performance, high efficiency and energy saving
● UDOC reflector
● Side switch button to transmission mode, user-friendly interface for output setting
● Two group modes plus editable brightness, more use cases to choose from
● Wide input range provides more choice of batteries
● High efficiency driver circuit, no visible PWM flicker in any mode
● automatic memory function
Remember the last setting used and it can be preset to a specific output mode for instant access.
● Intelligent temperature control technology for flashlight stable and safe use
● Reverse polarity protection to protect against incorrect battery installation
● When turning off, long press the button to activate the lock function, avoid turning on the light unexpectedly
● During blocking, the button flashes, making it easy to find.
● Magnet in tailcap.

Packaging and appearance

The yellow cardboard packaging was replaced by gray. It looks quite average, it is immediately clear that this is not some kind of luxury model. But there is not the slightest hint of cheapness either. In general, I liked the last one more.

Inside is a plastic blister, which contains the flashlight itself and the remaining kit: head mount, clip, plug instead of magnet, lanyard, manual.

But the head mount has improved due to the fact that arrows around the perimeter have been added to the reflective element on the back of the head. The very same soft comfortable fabric remained unchanged, as well as the type of fastening itself.

It is clear that it was impossible to release the fourth version in the case of the third. The solution is simple — change the knurling. Due to this, it was possible to definitely update the appearance of the browband, keeping it in the same dimensions and weight. In general, it seems to me that the knurling of the previous version was more pleasing to the eye and more reliable in grip.

Otherwise, it’s still the same compact L-shaped headrest.

Just for size comparison, here is the most popular Sofirn SP40. Here you can see the difference both in the type of optics and in size. The SP40 isn’t big either, but I don’t really remember a single L-shaped forehead pad smaller than the H03/H04.

The head, as a whole, remained unchanged. The new model is issued by the corresponding serial number and the changed design of the button. The latter, by the way, is also with a red backlight display.

The version with charging, if nothing has changed there, should have an appropriate contact pad on the head and 2-3 mm of additional length due to this.

Neither the optics nor the LED have changed here — everything is absolutely the same, the manufacturer did not reinvent the wheel. Models with a reflector and shutter turned out to be much less popular in comparison with the now canonical H03 with TIR optics.

The magnet in the tail cap can be removed, for which there is a corresponding plug in the kit. In general, the magnet is normal and holds the horizontal without any problems. But in SP40 it is stronger. Again, nothing prevents you from buying another magnet on Ali and adding it under the spring to the main one.

The thread in both models is the same, quite normally lubricated. The head is glued on, only the tailcap is twisted. There is a lanyard hole both in the head and in the tailcap.

The lathe is accurate. In the new version, we added a hint sticker on how to insert the battery correctly.

Separately, I note that with such a compactness, Skilhunt could have put a contact pad instead of a spring (and thereby complicate the life of users of flat-headed batteries), but did not.

Cooling fins are the maximum possible for a head of this size. I’ve seen drastically smaller ones in headbands that were larger. Here, by the way, an insignificant difference in the design of the button is visible.

That, in fact, is all. At the level of appearance changes touched only knurling and did not affect the functionality or the light in any way

Control

Here lies the most significant change. In addition to the usual, a customizable interface has appeared with a change in hold modes. The link in the header is a monstrous google translation (the English version will not add clarity)

(time) blocking — 1.5 sec hold off If the lights accidentally press the button against something, then it will unlock itself. So it’s better to unscrew the tailcap.

mode memory There is

charge indication: button flashes 4x 100%~80%, 3x 80%~50%, 2x 50%~20%, 1x charge below 20% every time power on

A-B mode change

From off, press and hold the button for 5 seconds, the lamp in the button will flash three times quickly then three times slowly.

Mode A:

From OFF:

press the button to turn on the last used brightness level

2x quick click starts Turbo (T1/T2)

3x quick click starts strobe

hold for 0.5 seconds — start Low (L1 / L2) )

from ON

press and hold side switch for 0.5 second to turn off

Brightness and mode selection

Brightness level: Press the button to switch between Low-Mid-High-Turbo

quickly press the button twice to switch between sub-levels (for example, between L1 and L2)

Special Modes: Press the button three times quickly to start the strobe (S1), then double-click to switch S1/S2/S3 mode, press the button to return to normal mode at the last used brightness level.

Mode B

from OFF

On by clicking on the last used level brightness level,

holding 0.5 sec starts L2,

2x click starts Turbo (T1),

3x click launches special modes (S1)

from ON

click off

holding the button — change modes in a circle

3 clicks — level editing. (!)

In special modes: quickly double-click the button to switch between S1 / S2 / S3, press the button to turn off the forehead, hold the button for 1 second to adjust brightness level S1/S2/S3 in low, medium or high mode, quickly press three times to restore factory default flash modes

Level editing:

no matter how complicated the scheme may seem, I find it extremely simple

default L2-M2-H2-T2

From ON do 3 clicks.

The brightness begins to scroll in a circle in increasing order. When the brightness is on one of the already selected modes, the button lights up. Accordingly, if the level has not yet been added to the selected ones, the button is not lit.

-> click on the desired level and the level is added or removed from the selected ones (the indicator on the button lights up or goes out). Thus, you can assign either just 2 brightness levels, or as many as 7. T1 cannot be assignedaccessed by 2 clicks.

Reset settings to factory settings. Enter edit mode and make 3 clicks

In general, those who like switching on hold will appreciate it. But, in my opinion, this is clearly not enough to call H03 a new version.

Light

100% the same as before. no change at all. Diffused wide neutral light. Extremely convenient for working at the closest possible distances — the same soldering, for example. The SP40 with its reflector will definitely be less practical here (although its glass can be frosted if desired).

720 bea

I still have an example of H03R light in relation to other types of light, it will be interesting. The light is quite warm and cozy. Now I prefer 5000K and the light of this headpiece is too yellow for me. A couple of years ago it was the other way around. In short — taste

Of course, you should not count on the ability of a headband with such dimensions to maintain maximum brightness.

To my surprise — I didn’t see a thermostepdown here. When T1 was turned on over and over again, this maximum mode was the same both in brightness and in a very good duration for a turbo in 2 minutes. In short, the stepdown here is on a timer. What does it give? If you can turn on the maximum over and over again (although the offal can boil. And if the LED and the driver survive, then it will be very harmful for the battery). In conditions real cold this can be a nice plus.

And all the Skilhunt H03H04 can do is keep the brightness of about 500 lumens without a drawdown. I do not see the slightest problem in this, because both the headlamp and such flood light require close-range work, where even such brightness will most often be excessive. Many, of course, are chasing lumens and manufacturers indulge them.

3-4 hours at this brightness is an excellent indicator. I repeat, for work like picking in the engine / shield, not to mention soldering, the extremely long 160 lumens from H2 are generally enough for you.

Briefly speaking. There is stabilization. The browband works for a long time at small and cranked levels. The schedule is given for the most popular pennies (without a protection board and a pip) Litocal-Panasonic NCR18650BI don’t see the point in taking something more expensive here.

The flashlight turns off somewhere at 2.8v.

How long does the skilhunt H04 Skilhunt H03 headband shine?

As for light as such, nothing, absolutely nothing new has happened here. It’s still the same wide, yellowish wash light known from a plethora of reviews. It is clear that I cannot leave a review without photos. so look.

Far from being exceptionally long-range, the Skilhunt H04 illuminates the garden quite confidently and completely at maximum brightness. That is, in a situation where the lockdown, you can illuminate everything around at a distance of 30-40 meters in the open air.

720 garden vs
720 modes

For indoors, the maximum brightness is even redundant.

720 zal

To work at arm’s length, L1-L2-M1 is enough.

720 stol

In the video review, you can also clearly see how the Skilhunt H04 shines

General impressions

The Skilhunt H03 has been a bestseller for years. For his 30 bucks, the user received a high-quality assembly and comfortable dipped headlight with unusual controls. Namely: 4 brightness levels with instant access to the two extreme ones from the off state, while from the main ones it was easy to get into additional ones. There was only one minus, when switching quickly, instead of the next level (L2-M1, for example), the user moved to a sublevel, i.e. The headband could mistake a series of quick presses for double ones, and there was no talk of instant access to the turbo from the off state.

Now an additional and fundamentally different, similar to Trunite-Olight, group B in control deprives the user of quick (including erroneous) access to sub-modes, but allows you to customize the main ones for yourself, while maintaining the full functionality of instant access to the minimum-maximum brightness. And it will be more familiar and convenient for fans of the olite-trunight interface with rewind on hold and on / off on click.

In general, I Bye I do not see obvious minuses in this experiment. That’s just, in my opinion, one additional group of modes in control and additional reflective elements on the head mount is clearly not enough to change 03 to 04 in the title. It is clear that in such sizes it would not be worth waiting for greater brightness (it’s pointless), and everything else with which you could experiment, the manufacturer has already brought to life in H03RH03RCH03F. Skilhunt have painted themselves into a corner by developing a model that is too good to be radically improved without creating something completely new. But they didn’t create it at all. So H03.2 here seems to be a suitable name than H04.

Otherwise, the user gets the same popular Skilhunt H03 headband with even more flexible controls. The light has remained unchanged, exceptionally convenient at close range with the ability to illuminate everything around in the open air within a radius of about 20-30 meters — only the H04 version with a reflector can compete with Sofirn SP40. The body is actually the same.

I don’t know people who took this headband for the full price of $50, but at a sale of $30 it sold like pies — there was nothing similar in terms of convenience and quality in this price segment, and the SP40, for all its pluses, is pretty different in light distribution and the absence complete stabilization. The headband isn’t perfect, but for the sale price, you won’t find better when looking for just such a light.

In fact, those who are aware of what the past model was like did not see anything new. I think that the manufacturer will simply remove H03 from sales in the end and only H04 will remain on the market. The main thing for the user is that no matter how the manufacturer calls the new model, movement is visible and this is movement forward. And, of course, to keep the opportunity to take it at a sale price).

UPD after a while I can say that the Wurkkos HD15 is much more interesting and affordable. I recommend him.

Where to buy and how to save

Skilhunt H04 buy aliexpress ► YANDEX-MARKET ►SBERMEGAMARKET

You can save on purchases with coupons and promotional codes from the discount channel in telegram, see the link to it below in the “about the author” block

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